The central markets in spain’s rural countryside begin at the same time each day. Around 7 a.m., the sun makes quick work of drying the dew off the wild oregano, bringing with it a dusty heat that coats the thistles. Vendors bend the hinges of folding tables and erect tents to protect their heads from the midday burn. Some set up in town squares, others on the lawns of ancient monasteries crawling with vines.
It’s a little before dawn on July 7 and already thousands of spectators are jockeying for a spot behind newly-erected safety fences along Calle Santo Domingo in Pamplona, Spain for the Running of the Bulls. Those lucky enough to live on the street in apartments with balconies don’t need to appear quite that early. Well before 8 a.m., all are cheering the hundreds of runners, called ‘mozos,’ that have gathered in the Palaza de Santa Domingo to hear the church of San Cernin strike the starting hour of the traditional event. Continue reading →